Wednesday, August 18, 2010
You are not an electrician! Why are your hands in there?
Why do people think that home ownership qualifies them to repair and install electrical wiring?
Question:
My outside house light stopped working. I replaced bulb, but NG. The indicator light on timer was not lit so replaced it. When new timer put to the "on" position the indicator light still does not light, nor does the outside light. When a power checker tool is touched to the outside receptacle it lights up. Does this mean there is a short and could someone get a shock? Is electrician my next move, or is there something else I can do? Thank you.
ANSWER:
sounds like a bad lamp....
other than that, I can't see your tester results, call a professional electrician
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION:
Thanks for your prompt reply. You really offer a great service to those of us who can not afford to hire professionals (as much as we would rather)...By lamp, do you mean that I replace the outside light too? But, shouldn't the light on the timer at least be on if it was working properly? Or not?
Answer:
LIFE SAFETY WARNING! [disclaimer]
Electricity is dangerous!
You can be injured or killed!
Improper installations can cause fire, injury and death!
Are you qualified to do this work?
*
National Electrical Code definition, NFPA 70 2008 Article 100 I: Qualified Person. "One who has skills and knowledge related to the construction and operation of the electrical equipment and installations and has received safety training to recognize and avoid the hazards involved."
*
A lamp is what non-electricians call a bulb, which screws into a "lamp fixture."
If the filament is broken in the lamp, there is no current path for the timer to work [we ARE talking about an in-wall timer which replaced a switch, right?], as it relies on this for a neutral path. These timers split power internally to grab electricity to run the timer.
It could also be an open neutral.
This "power checker" tool you refer to ... is it a "magic wand" inductance sensor type? They are patently useless for troubleshooting. You are looking for an open in the circuit. It could be as simple and inobvious as a bad rivet in the fixture socket.
I had also assumed the "outside light" was at a door. This may be erroneous. Where is the light?
What does the outside receptacle have to do with the light?
I still think you are going to end up with an electrician visiting...
*
You are more likely to be killed by 120 volts than any other voltage [120 volts creates the PERFECT fatal current through the human body's electrical resistance!]
TURN THE POWER OFF WHEN WORKING!
*
LIFE SAFETY WARNING! [disclaimer]
This information is provided for the use of parties as they see fit!
I am not responsible for the application of this information by any party, including those lacking sufficient skill or knowledge to perform these steps safely and any hazard created is the SOLE responsibility of the user.
Question:
My outside house light stopped working. I replaced bulb, but NG. The indicator light on timer was not lit so replaced it. When new timer put to the "on" position the indicator light still does not light, nor does the outside light. When a power checker tool is touched to the outside receptacle it lights up. Does this mean there is a short and could someone get a shock? Is electrician my next move, or is there something else I can do? Thank you.
ANSWER:
sounds like a bad lamp....
other than that, I can't see your tester results, call a professional electrician
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION:
Thanks for your prompt reply. You really offer a great service to those of us who can not afford to hire professionals (as much as we would rather)...By lamp, do you mean that I replace the outside light too? But, shouldn't the light on the timer at least be on if it was working properly? Or not?
Answer:
LIFE SAFETY WARNING! [disclaimer]
Electricity is dangerous!
You can be injured or killed!
Improper installations can cause fire, injury and death!
Are you qualified to do this work?
*
National Electrical Code definition, NFPA 70 2008 Article 100 I: Qualified Person. "One who has skills and knowledge related to the construction and operation of the electrical equipment and installations and has received safety training to recognize and avoid the hazards involved."
*
A lamp is what non-electricians call a bulb, which screws into a "lamp fixture."
If the filament is broken in the lamp, there is no current path for the timer to work [we ARE talking about an in-wall timer which replaced a switch, right?], as it relies on this for a neutral path. These timers split power internally to grab electricity to run the timer.
It could also be an open neutral.
This "power checker" tool you refer to ... is it a "magic wand" inductance sensor type? They are patently useless for troubleshooting. You are looking for an open in the circuit. It could be as simple and inobvious as a bad rivet in the fixture socket.
I had also assumed the "outside light" was at a door. This may be erroneous. Where is the light?
What does the outside receptacle have to do with the light?
I still think you are going to end up with an electrician visiting...
*
You are more likely to be killed by 120 volts than any other voltage [120 volts creates the PERFECT fatal current through the human body's electrical resistance!]
TURN THE POWER OFF WHEN WORKING!
*
LIFE SAFETY WARNING! [disclaimer]
This information is provided for the use of parties as they see fit!
I am not responsible for the application of this information by any party, including those lacking sufficient skill or knowledge to perform these steps safely and any hazard created is the SOLE responsibility of the user.
# posted by Bob @ 7:09 PM 
